Ithaca Model 37 Troubleshooting

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2016 10:25 am
Thanks for the update...glad it worked out for you.
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2016 9:24 pm
For the interest of readers of this thread I have attached some screen shots of the KF manual discussed previously, the front page for reference and fig. 16, re-assembly of the yoke
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 10:16 am
Thanks..............
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2018 11:21 am
Whilst browsing the current gun company catalogue (and hoping for a UK importer to bring some in!) I couldn't help but notice that new guns seem to have the mag nut pinned by the yoke, perhaps a recommendation now?
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2018 4:14 pm
my guess is it has more to do with the new choke tube barrels.
kind of like with military guns ,with tubes theres no need to remove a barrel unless your cleaning.
with older fixed choke guns, many owners had 2 or 3 barrels of different chokes depending on what they were hunting .
pinning the yoke would be pita for every barrel change
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2018 6:27 pm
As always Sir, you make perfect sense.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2018 7:46 pm
A couple of questions if I may,
I am in the process of acquiring a couple of M37's, a 16g and 20g. I have checked them out and both, oddly had exactly the same fault. The slide pin on both guns was sheared at the narrow part. I have made some enquiries about getting the pins but we do seem to have problems with parts from the States. My first question is this, are the pins on a 20g, 16g, and 12g all the same size? Indeed, are the slides the same size? I ask as my best course of action may be to get these pins machined over here, if, that is, I can use a 12g pin as master.
Also, when driving out the slide pin check pin, is it done from the top or bottom of the slide?
Is the check pin re-usable?

Thanks in anticipation :)

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2018 5:47 pm
To my knowledge the slide pin is the same on all gauges. I believe the slide stop pin is supposed to be re usable. I can't remember if I have ever had one out personally though.
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2018 6:28 pm
Having got no reply from Ithaca regarding parts, I guess they are like all US companies now, not supplying gun parts outside the USA and Canada, Numrich making that same statement and Brownells UK having the grand total of 4 Ithaca parts, I decided to fabricate.

My initial intention was to turn the parts on a lathe but with a broken cutter I was forced to re-think. I sourced some 4.5 mm steel rod (luckily exactly the right size!) and determined that
1, the pin did not need to rotate and
2, by leaving more material in the pin it would be somewhat stronger.

As stated by Cutcher, the pins are all the same size, not calibre dependant so I made two and left one of them in my 1965 go-to pigeon gun. If it was going to be unreliable I would soon know!

I cut a slot for the check pin 1.5mm deep using the original to give the dimensions. Refitting, I marked the shallow scooped out area that aligns with the slide underside and then shaped with a half round file, finishing with a screwdriver slot for taking down. Although it is free moving, it is quite a snug fit, so I turned a small oil way groove to retain a little lube. Re-assembling proved the part to be fit for purpose so I will shortly be able to take possession of 2 new (to me) 37's. There is a necessary delay as once the guns are back in one piece they have to go to the proof house for restriction certification (Red Tape!)

In case any other reader has this problem, (manifested by being unable to remove the forend when pulling the slide pin back) This is the procedure;

Lay the gun on a flat surface, on its right hand side, with the receiver on a piece of wood to raise it and so lay perfectly flat (action bar uppermost)
Hold the slide pin across to release (will be downwards with gun on its side)
While holding the pin, tap the receiver on the left side with a soft rubber hammer or protected by wood, this will cause the broken piece of the pin to fall into the pin cavity so you may now pull the slide assembly clear

It took me a while to work this out as taking down this assembly is usually done with the gun upside down. Hope if you break a pin this helps (of course in the States you can get a new pin for pennies! :|
For what its worth, the check pin is driven out from the bottom to the top of the slide and yes it is re-usable
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2018 7:22 pm
While I was sorting out my pins a friend called who had lost his safety catch out in the field together with the detent pin and spring. It is not the first time I have heard of this and as mentioned above parts for Ithaca's are almost unobtainable over here. I offered him one of my rotating ambidextrous safeties (detailed in modifications thread) but he said he would like a standard, right handed, push through one.

I silver solder brazed a piece of 2mm steel bar into a 1/4" steel rod and filed to shape, check fitting with one of my guns. To prevent further loss, I made the catch about 1mm longer on the left hand side so that there is now a 'riser' retaining the pin when in the Safe position, as opposed to the down slope as standard. A brass detent pin and longer spring complete the set.

While making and testing, it occurred to me that the trigger should actually prevent the Safety catch from falling out, even if the pin and spring were not in place. So I am not sure if my friend was being 100% truthful about his loss
Nonetheless, a friend in need as they say...……….
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2018 6:44 pm
You do nice work.
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2018 4:46 pm
Thank you Sir, it’s a ‘ needs must ‘ situation for Ithaca in the UK things like springs and pins I tend to buy mixed bags as they become available, and usually can find a suitable candidate for most jobs. I constantly scour the auctions for guns and do not discount wreckers that could be donors. Any serial numbered receiver has to be held on licence as a complete gun, it can only be removed if cut up by a registered firearms dealer. I have done this with a couple of write-off Savage Stevens but all my Ithaca’s are for saving. Making the parts I need is rewarding in itself, it’s a part of my shooting hobby and I enjoy it. This forum is my first Ithaca reference source, it has been most enlightening and I post my projects to hopefully encourage others. I hope the forum revives with new owners and old alike discussing our favourite firearms.
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2018 6:05 pm
Help Please!!
I have purchased a 20g (blind) and found that it has no magazine follower (amongst other parts missing) everything I can make or substitute but not the follower as I have no dimensions. Would one of you please measure your 20g follower for me
A Overall Length
B Diameter of stop/bearing surface
C Diameter of main body (not tapered end, I can adjust that
D Length of stop/bearing surface

Measurements in Thou or metric ok, hopefully from digital micrometer if possible

Of course I can guestimate the sizes but it would help immensely to start with the correct dimensions

Thanking you for your assistance
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2018 10:06 pm
I'll try to get the numbers for you when I get home from work tomorrow. Sunday at the latest.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2018 9:58 pm
Shoot, got busy and forgot! Here are the measurements off of two different vintages of a stamped sheet metal followers. "A" and "D" are slightly longer on one then the other. I doupt it makes much of a difference either way. Hope this helps. Here goes:
A=29.73mm on the longer one, 28.45mm on the shorter one
B=23mm
C=19.1mm
D=6.25mm on the longer one, 4.92mm on the shorter one
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2018 8:19 am
Thank you for taking the time Sir!
This is going to be somewhat of a repeat of my 12g (English) problem detailed elsewhere as this tube is also crimped. I have a few ideas based upon that problem and solution and I will post when done (hopefully!)
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